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Mountaineering In Pamir : Lenin Peak Tour 7134 M

Country: Kyrgyzstan
City: Bishkek
Duration: 21 Day(s) - 20 Night(s)
Tour Category: Mountaineering Tours
Departure Date: Thu 01 Jan '99

Package Itinerary

Route description:

Classic Route via Razdelnaya Peak

From Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700 m) walk through the glade of Lukovaya Polyana (“wild onion meadow”). As the plateau ends follow the small steep path that ascends towards Puteshestvennikov Pass (4100 m). Descend again via the moraine to the right where the climb up Lenin Glacier begins (about 5 km from Base Camp). Walk along the Glacier further for 5 km to the altitude of 4200 m where Advanced Base Camp is located on the moraine near the head of the glacier. Approximate time from Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp is 6-8 hours of hiking.

From Camp 1 (Advanced Base Camp, 4200 m) cross the flat glacier again and go right up the face to the "Skovorodka" (“frypan”). This area is heavily crevassed and it is highly recommended to use ropes and move together in roped climbing teams of at least 2, but preferably 3 climbers. Relatively steep (45º+) parts of snow or ice between camps 1 and 2 are protected by fixed ropes. But be aware that in some parts ice screws are prone to melting out in the midday heat. At the top of the steep section begins the traverse to Camp 2, which is located on a rocky section to the far right of the glacier at about 5300 m.

The approximate ascent time from ABC at 4200 m to Camp 2 at 5300 m is 6-8 hours. This section can be exhausting in sunny weather due to the heat.

From Camp 2 at 5300 m ascend steeply above the camp to gain the ridge. Follow the ridge up to an altitude of 6100 m where Camp 3 can be set up on the small col under Mt Razdelnaya at an altitude of about 6100 m. The approximate ascent time from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is 4-6 hours. This part of the ascent is a snow slog with few crevasses where rope and harness are not usually necessary. It is possible to camp along the ridge in case of bad weather or emergency.

From Camp 3 at 6100 m ascend along the western ridge of Peak Lenin. The first part of this ridge can be mixed snow and rock. A rocky plateau is reached at 6400 m (where it is possible to establish Camp 4 if required). Above this plateau is a short steepest snow slope of about 40 degrees where there is often a fixed rope and an ice axe may be necessary, care should be taken on this short section, particularly on the descent.

Above this, there is a rocky section before reaching the pre-summit plateau which at first drops then rises to the true summit plateau at 7134 m. The approximate time from Camp 3 to summit and return is 10-15 hours. The whole route to the summit can be subject to extremely high winds which can also be incredibly cold.

Scheme of standard program Bishkek-Bishkek (21 days)

Day 1: International flight to Bishkek.

Day 2: Arrival in Bishkek. Domestic morning flight to Osh.

Day 3: Transfer Osh - Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700 m).

Day 4 -18: Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).

Day 19: Transfer from Achik-Tash Base Camp to Osh.

Day 20: Domestic flight to Bishkek. Transfer to the hotel.

Day 21: International flight from Bishkek.

Service included in standard program Bishkek-Bishkek:

Visa support (if required)

Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)

Border permit and delivery the permit to Osh or Base Camp

Registration in local Rescue Service

Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club

Domestic flight Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek (return way)

Airport transfers in Osh

Transfers Osh - Achik-Tash (Base Camp) - Osh *)

Airport transfers in Bishkek on outward travel

Accommodation

In Bishkek: Hotel 3* - for 1 night (including breakfast)

In Osh: Hotel 3* – for 2 nights (excluding breakfast

In Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis + warm mattresses

In Advanced Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis

Full board in the Base Camp (3700 m)

Full board in Advanced Base Camp (4200 m)

Summer Shower in Base Camp

Outdoor toilet

Storage service

Electricity supply / Solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge batteries

Mess tent / Yurt in the Base Camp (3700m) & Advanced Base Camp (4200 m)

Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides

Assistance in changing departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are paid only.

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