Mountaineering Tour In North Tien-shan

Mountaineering in North Tien-Shan. Ala-Archa Gorge Kyrgyzstan

Season: May-October

This course is specially developed for mountaineers and climbers who want to combine learning of new skills and exploring new destination and culture.

Skills and knowledge

For beginners

• Introduction to basic climbing equipment;
• Attaching to the rope and other climbing knots;
• Moving efficiently over rocky 'scrambling' terrain;
• Belaying and protection techniques on rock, ice and snow;
• Use of crampons and ice axe on snow and ice;
• Taking coils and moving together with the rope;
• Short rope techniques for different types of alpine terrain;
• Safe glacier travel and crevasse rescue;
• Descending on snow and ice;
• Alpine navigation and interpretation of maps and guidebook;
• Preparation and selection of climbing equipment;

For advanced mountaineers:

• To give you the full range of alpine rock climbing experiences;
• To coach and develop your existing climbing skills, which in turn will build the confidence needed to climb safely and efficiently in this challenging environment;
• To enjoy some high-quality, classic alpine rock routes;
• Appropriate route selection for prevailing conditions and abilities ;
• Moving together with the rope on different types of alpine terrain;
• Safe glacier travel and crevasse rescue;
• Interpretation of alpine conditions and weather

Area of training in brief.

Being located on 3300m in Ala-Archa Gorge in North Tien-Shan mountains, Ak-Sai Glacier is one of the most popular and spectacular places for mountaineering and climbing. About 150 routes from the simplest to the most complicated walls lifting up to 1100 m have been travelled there. The summits lift up to the altitude of 4895 m (the highest point of the range is Semenov Tien-Shanskyi Peak). Routes are mainly combined and rock, rarely ice and snow-ice. The rocks consist of tough granite and granodiorite. The difference of altitude is till 1100 m. The difference of altitude is up to 1100 m.

The amount of precipitation attains 690 mm p/a. The least amount of precipitation falls in September while the largest one is in May and June. The average temperature is +12 C in spring, -7 C in winter, and +30 C in summer.

It takes one hour drive from Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, then and three-four hours of hike from the road terminal in Ala-Archa Gorge to Ak-Sai.

Suggested summits to climb for beginners: Uchitel Peak 4550 m (1B), Box Peak 4250 m (2A), Teke-Tor Peak 4441 m (2A), Izyskatel Peak 4400 (2A). For technical skills training there are rock walls near Ak-Sai Hut.

Suggested summits to climb for advanced climbers: Corona Peak 4860 m (3A, 4A), Svobodnaya Korea

Itinerary

Day 1

International flight.

Day 2

Early morning arrival to Bishkek. Airport pick-up, transfer to the hotel. Rest. Last minute preparations, shopping.

Day 3

Morning transfer to Ala-Archa Nature Park at altitude 1200 m (1 hour). Trek up to Ak-Sai Mountain Hut, 3200m (4-5 hours). Overnight in the mountain hut.

Days 4-7

Acclimatization and training. Ascent to the peaks of 4 000 m - 4 800 m.

Day 8

Trek down to the Nature Park, transfer back to Bishkek.

Option: Sightseeing around Bishkek.

Day 9

Early morning departure.

Service included in the program price:

• Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
• Registration in local Rescue Service
• Airport-hotel transfers in Bishkek, return way
• Transfers from Bishkek to Ala-Archa Gorge, return way
• Accommodation:
• in Bishkek: – 3* Hotel or Guest House – for 3 nights including early check-in
• in Ala-Archa Gorge: Ak-Sai Mountain Hut – for 5 nights

Service available at extra payment (not included in the program):

• Kyrgyz visa fee
• Visa support (if required)
• Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
• Transfer / flight from Almaty (Kazakhstan) to Bishkek
• Bar in Ak-Sai Hut
• Camping gas (propane / butane), screw type
• Local Mountain Guide,

Note: We reccomend guide client ration 1:5. maximum

• Porterage service to deliver personal gear to Ak-Sai Mountain Hut

Note: 1 porter carries up to 20 kg. Overweight is charge USD 2 per kg. Maximum weight 30 kg

• Rent of satellite phone to take for ascent (safety deposit 3USD 300 is required): USD 20 per day (Thuraya airtime is charged extra)
• Use of sat phone in Ak-Sai Mountain Hut is free of charge, cost of calls and sms only are paid: USD 4 / minute, USD 2 / sms.
• Excursions in Bishkek, on Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake and others
• Trekking and Horseback riding tours in Kyrgyzstan

Conditions and notes:

1) Group members provide personal mountaineering gear for training by themselves.
2) Mountaineering outfit can be sent to Bishkek in advance, ITMC can assist with customs clearance.

3) Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of USD 40 000.