Mountaineering Tour In North Tien- Shan

Mountaineering in North Tien-Shan: Ala-Archa Gorge, Kyrgyzstan

Season: May – October

This course is specially designed for mountaineers and climbers who want to combine learning new skills with exploring a new destination and culture.

Skills and Knowledge

For Beginners:

Introduction to basic climbing equipment

Attaching to the rope and learning essential climbing knots

Moving efficiently over rocky “scrambling” terrain

Belaying and protection techniques on rock, ice, and snow

Use of crampons and an ice axe on snow and ice

Taking coils and moving together with the rope

Short-rope techniques for different types of alpine terrain

Safe glacier travel and crevasse rescue

Descending on snow and ice

Alpine navigation and interpretation of maps and guidebooks

Preparation and selection of climbing equipment

For Advanced Mountaineers:

Experience a full range of alpine rock climbing routes

Coaching to develop existing climbing skills and build confidence

Climb safely and efficiently in a challenging alpine environment

Enjoy high-quality, classic alpine rock routes

Appropriate route selection based on conditions and abilities

Moving together with the rope on various alpine terrains

Safe glacier travel and crevasse rescue

Interpretation of Alpine conditions and weather

Training Area Overview

Located at an altitude of 3,300 m in the Ala-Archa Gorge of the North Tien-Shan Mountains, the Ak-Sai Glacier is one of the most popular and spectacular destinations for mountaineering and climbing.

Around 150 routes—ranging from simple to highly technical climbs on walls up to 1,100 m—are available in this area. The surrounding peaks rise to 4,895 m, with the highest point being Semenov Tien-Shansky Peak.

Routes are primarily mixed (rock), with occasional ice and snow-ice climbs. The rock mainly consists of strong granite and granodiorite. The altitude difference reaches up to 1,100 m.

Annual precipitation averages 690 mm. The lowest rainfall occurs in September, while the highest is in May and June. Average temperatures are approximately +12°C in spring, -7°C in winter, and up to +30°C in summer.

The area is easily accessible: it takes about a one-hour drive from Bishkek, followed by a 3–4 hour hike from the Ala-Archa Gorge trailhead to Ak-Sai.

Suggested Peaks

For Beginners:

Uchitel Peak (4,550 m, Grade 1B)

Box Peak (4,250 m, Grade 2A)

Teke-Tor Peak (4,441 m, Grade 2A)

Izyskatel Peak (4,400 m, Grade 2A)

Rock walls near Ak-Sai Hut are ideal for technical skills training.

For Advanced Climbers:

Corona Peak (4,860 m, Grades 3A–4A)

Svobodnaya Korea Peak

Itinerary

Day 1: International Departure

Departure by international flight.

Day 2: Arrival in Bishkek & Preparation

Early morning arrival in Bishkek. Airport pick-up and transfer to the hotel. Rest, followed by last-minute preparations and shopping.

Day 3: Transfer to Ala-Archa & Trek to Ak-Sai Hut

Morning transfer to Ala-Archa Nature Park (1 hour, altitude 1,200 m). Trek to Ak-Sai Mountain Hut (3,200 m), which takes approximately 4–5 hours. Overnight in the mountain hut.

Days 4–7: Acclimatization & Climbing Training

Acclimatization and training, including ascents of peaks ranging from 4,000 m to 4,800 m.

Day 8: Return to Bishkek

Trek down to Ala-Archa Nature Park and transfer back to Bishkek.

Optional: Sightseeing in and around Bishkek.

Day 9: Departure

Early morning transfer to the airport for departure.

Services Included in the Program Price:

Certificate of ascent issued by the Kyrgyz Alpine Club

Registration with the local rescue service

Airport–hotel transfers in Bishkek (round trip)

Transfers between Bishkek and Ala-Archa Gorge (round trip)

Accommodation:

Bishkek: 3★ hotel or guest house – 3 nights (including early check-in)

Ala-Archa Gorge: Ak-Sai Mountain Hut – 5 nights

Services Available at Extra Cost (Not Included)

Kyrgyz visa fee

Visa support (if required)

Registration with the passport department (OVIR), if required

Transfer/flight from Almaty (Kazakhstan) to Bishkek

Bar services at Ak-Sai Hut

Camping gas (propane/butane, screw type)

Local mountain guide

Note: Recommended guide-to-client ratio is 1:5 (maximum).

Porter service for delivering personal gear to Ak-Sai Hut

One porter carries up to 20 kg; maximum 30 kg

Excess weight is charged at USD 2 per kg

Satellite phone rental for ascents (USD 20 per day; USD 300 refundable deposit required; airtime charged separately)

Use of satellite phone at Ak-Sai Hut (calls: USD 4/minute; SMS: USD 2/message)

Excursions in Bishkek, Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake, and other destinations

Trekking and horseback riding tours in Kyrgyzstan

Conditions and Notes:

Participants must provide their own personal mountaineering gear for training.

Mountaineering equipment can be sent to Bishkek in advance; ITMC can assist with customs clearance.

All climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of USD 40,000.