| Country: | Kyrgyzstan |
| City: | Bishkek |
| Duration: | 21 Day(s) - 20 Night(s) |
| Tour Category: | Mountaineering Tours |
Route description:
Classical Route from South Inylchek Glacier
via west edge of the Semenovski Glacier
It is recommended to reserve first 2 days for walks on glacier in the area of Base Camp for acclimatization.
Move to Camp 1 at 4200 m.
Cross South Inylchek Glacier (approx. 6 km) to Camp 1 at the Shubin bivouac (4200 m). It takes 2-4 hours. And it is usual to leave base camp early in the afternoon and sleep in Camp 1 in preparation for a very early start next day. On the glacier there is no serious dangerous except small rivers with swift streams. It is recommended to go round the rivers or cross it with safety equipment on snow places.
Move to Camp 2.
Due to the prevalence of avalanche activity from the top of Mt Chapaeva (6371 m), and chance increases during a day time, we advise to make a very early start for the next section of the route. Ascent follows through the narrow and steep Semenovsky Glacier icefall to its upper reaches. To minimise the risk from the icefall it is important to pass this part of ascent route very fast and before sunrise. The best if you pass the place under icefall by 7:30am, and get to the Camp 2 by 12pm. Be aware of crevasses on the way and move only as roped team. Camp 2 can be pitched just below the west col at the altitude of about 5300 m. There is usually a snow cave at this point that may be used (on a "first come, first served" basis). Risk from icefall is bigger after mid August.
During period of acclimatisation we recommend to spend two nights at Camp 2, so climbers ascend to 6200 m - 6500 m before descend to the Base Camp for rest.
From Camp 2 route continues up the western ridge, where fixed ropes afford some protection for short climbs over two or three metres wide couloirs that interrupt the snow slope.
After acclimatization in Camp 2, and rest in the Base Camp, for the second ascent it is possible to make the way from Base Camp to Camp 3 at one day.
Camp 3 can be pitched at the altitude of 6400 m on the ridge, but space is limited and the location can be somewhat exposed, ridge being prone to violent north winds. It takes from 3 to 6 hours to move from Camp 2 to Camp 3 depending on amount of snow.
From Camp 3 ascent route goes up a small path on the right before reaching a large 150 m dihedral. This is the most technically difficult section of the ascent, but it is protected by fixed ropes
Summit can be reached from Camps 2 or 3. From Camp 3 it takes 4-10 hours. Start from Camp 3 is planned for 4 am. Wind in the area of summit is getting slowly between 12:00 and 14:00. Descent to the base camp can be made during a long day.
Scheme of standard programme Bishkek-Bishkek:
Day 1 International flight to Bishkek.
Day 2 Arrival in Bishkek. Transfer to Karakol (430 km, 7-8 hrs).
Day 3 Arrival in Bishkek. Transfer to Karakol (430 km, 7-8 hrs).
Day 4 Arrival in Bishkek. Transfer to Karakol (430 km, 7-8 hrs).
Day 5-19 Arrival in Bishkek. Transfer to Karakol (430 km, 7-8 hrs).
Day 20 Arrival in Bishkek. Transfer to Karakol (430 km, 7-8 hrs).
Day 21 Arrival in Bishkek. Transfer to Karakol (430 km, 7-8 hrs).
Service included in standard programme Bishkek-Bishkek:
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